The Bell & Ross house is known for its talented exploitation of the ever-evolving inspiration of aviation control and steering instruments. However, with its latest collection named Marine Instrument, the brand decides to tack. It retains its expertise in appropriating the graphic codes inherited from the edge instruments, but adds to this the extremely symbolic notion of materials.
Thus 3 timepieces were born adorned with bronze, gold, sapphire, titanium and even wood. Mixtures of legitimate materials in the light of the subject tackled but also extremely clever on the aesthetic point.
BR01 NAVY INSTRUMENT – THE CHRONOMETER
Ode to bronze and rosewood, this 3-needle watch with a white lacquered dial is a successful graphic reminder of marine instruments, in particular the clocks mounted on board the 18th century ships. The round dial, lacquered in white, is punctuated by fine blue steel hands and fine indexes in Roman numerals and dispenses the seconds off-center at 6 o’clock. Designed in the purest tradition of marine watches, it fits in the BR01 case, offering the same rhythm of shapes (square and round) as the boxes containing the hour systems of the time.
The front face of the watch, the bezel and the crown are made of bronze with copper-colored reflections which leaves room on the edge of the watch with a layer of rosewood. If you follow Rotekson, you know that I have a particular attraction for the aesthetic and justified use of materials and for this creation Bell & Ross, I am filled. Indeed, in addition to an honorable reminder of marine instrument parts, the balance of colors and materials of this timepiece forms a whole in the power of seduction certain. Moreover, I like to think that after several years, a patina will settle and bring even more cachet and character to the watch which is already an incredible object.
In the center of the circle of seconds, in red, it is the name of the movement that it is offered to discover. Cal 203, this hand-wound movement has a power reserve of 56 hours, increased walking capacity, the last tribute of this watch to long ocean escapes.
BR X1 SKELETON – THE CHRONOGRAPH
Another vision of this heritage is the BR X1 Skeleton, which offers a more massive approach to the use of bronze and rosewood, but always with great success. A more dense design inherited by the chronograph function which must naturally take place visually on the dial, at the level of use on the side of the case but also at the level of movement which is a mechanical caliber with self-winding skeleton.
The dial of this watch is made of sapphire crystal. It is gray smoked with a colorful ambiance similar to those of the tormented skies frequently encountered by naval crews during their journeys. The relief indexes in bronze and luminescent materials, as well as the needles, are accompanied by a Roman numeral timer. The indications related to the chronograph are translated by the second counter at 3 o’clock and at 9 o’clock, or the minute counter, takes the form of a boat propeller.
Just like his little sister, this creation juggles beautifully with bronze and rosewood. I have a particular admiration for the chronograph pushers which, fashioned in bronze, integrate with great aesthetics to the whole case. The bronze reminders also present in the dial for the logo, the name of the model BR X1 and the contour of the date window harmonize the watch and confer a visual rhythm and an astonishing grip.
BR X1 TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPHE – THE GRAAL
Bell & Ross unveils a flying tourbillon registered in the box of this marine collection and more precisely on the basis of its little sister the BR X1 that I just presented above.
For this centerpiece, it is one of the most noble complications of watchmaking that is used, I named the tourbillon. Ultimate objective of many collectors, the tourbillon is used in the quest for precision that live all the brands of luxury watches. The regulating parts of the watch are housed in a cage that rotates on itself. This effect of constant movements greatly reduces the impact of gravity on the mechanism. For this movement of 282 pieces, the tourbillon works and performs a revolution in 1 minute. It is surmounted by the brand logo “&”.